In the last post, we were just about to set off on a hike to Volcan Maderas on the tropical island of Ometepe. It was quite an experience – far more challenging than expected. We considered ourselves reasonably fit and thought it would be ‘a walk in the park’but pride comes before a fall, and there was a lot of falling – or at least slipping and sliding on this hike. The roundtrip, walking from our tree house took over eight and a half hours with very few breaks. We trekked with our guide, Enrico, through dry forest with bananas, cacao trees and humid forest into cloud forest and huge swathes of ferns-with water dripping from every single leaf. Damp misty conditions hid the amazing views and we were drenched from humidity and sweat. The going was tough – rocky, muddy, slippery…although Enrico seemed to glide over the mud. My boots were soon caked with sticky mud. The monkeys were elusive although we caught glimpses of all three types, the howlers were at their loudest before daybreak. Butterflies flew past in a blur in the lower parts – we couldnt really look at them as putting one foot in front of the other took all our concentration. There were all sorts strange fungi growing on the tree trunks like exotic flowers. Volcana Maderas means the Volcano of wood and it certainly lived up to its name – entirely tree-clad even at the top so it wasn’t even obvious that we had reached the pinnacle. Then we descended a treacherous path down the side into the crater and there was an echo of home, a grey lake with rushes and partially obscured by mist. It did NOTfeel like we were inside the crator of an extinct volcano in Nicaragua, we could have been in the Comeraghs. The descent was even more challenging and that was where the slip-slidding really happened. Emerging Cicadas made ear-splitting sounds on the way down and birds flitted overhead.

Our bamboo house was unique and we loved it but it was very rustic….it felt as if we were sharing the space with all sorts of critters. Caoimhin flushed the toilet and a little frog jumped out. The same thing happened to me a few times. Prepare for the unexpected! We also found the occasional scorpian nestling in the towels and I had a cockroche in my shoe. I put my foot in without realising and was wondering what was the hard thing leaning against my toe. It ranks as one of my most disgusting animal encounters

We also kayaked along the lake and up the river where the mangrooves grow. We have kayaked in Guatemala, in Belize and now in Nicaragua and each time it has been a beautiful experience of reflection and tranquility. It was late morning and the monkeys (even the howlers)were resting, we could see them high in the trees, some with their arms wrapped around each other. There were lots of egrets – so elegant – and several types of heron. Small turtles rested on stones or logs and slid into the water as we approached although we were whispering and hardly making a splash. We glimpsed a shy kingfisher before he too took off . But soon it was time for us to drag ourselvesaway from the magic spell of Ometepe Island and our bamboo house. The morning was overcast with the threat of rain as we boarded the ferry to the mainland – a tranquil hour on the water- and then onwards to San Juan del Sur on the Pacific coast to the surf, a mecca for surfers.

We had been warned that San Juan del Sur was overpriced, overrun with tourists and was not a nice place. But it was also on the way to the border with Costa Rica so we went there anyway. We booked a hotel about three kilometres outside town (away from the mayhem) and while it was definitely overpriced, it certainly wasn’t overrun with guests – we were the only people staying there. The room we booked was small, damp and had no view and cost $67 (phenomenal money in Nicaragua – we had expected luxury for that price). Caoimhin complained and bargained hard and we were moved to another room overlooking the pool and with distant views of the sea. The food was also overpriced and not even very good so we spent our time there complaining about the price of everything. We were marooned there as well as it was about an hour to walk to town on an unpaved road and there was nothing nearby with few buses and no taxis. We attempted to go to the beach that we could see in the distance from the hotel but it was private and access was a eye-watering $20 each so of course we didnt go there. We had lunch in a restaurant about a kilometre in the other direction away from town and to gain entry to the restauaant, we had to pay $10 each which was then taken from our food bill, i.e. there was a minimum speend of $10 per person. This was a very different side of Nicaragua. But the enforced seclusion and isolation was good, we rested, we swam in the pool, watched a couple of movies and I read a book (Trespasses by Louise Kennedy, absolutely fantastic book with great characters set in Northern Ireland during the Troubles).

We moved to the outskirts of San Juan on the southern side to a little cabin, with views of the sea, cooking facilities and a trio of cats. in a garden on the hills. The rain came and went, mist descended and brought torrential rain – a blocked gutter meant it was like a waterfall outside our cabin – and then it cleared to blue skies and sunshine. The temperatures were balmy – 30C during the day and about 22C at night with a light breeze. The sunsets were spectacular and the locals played volleyball on the beach at low tide. There was a huge statue of Christ on the hill as if we were in Rio de Janeiro….and of coursewe climbed up there where mansions dotted the hills with private pools and balconies. But the poverty was never far away. Kids did the rounds of the restaurants and bars selling bracelets, chewing gum or wooden carvings, many as young as six. One little boy about 9 years old, slept on a piece of cardboard in the street at midday There were Karioke bars and procession of the Virgin through town on Saturday evening accompanied by drums and a brass band.. Such noise and life for our last days in Nicaragua. It just shows that you can visit a country and depending on where you stay and who you meet, you can have a totally different experience.

Despite all its contradictions, we will be sad to leave Nicaragua. Tomorrow we move on to Costa Rica – back to the beginning – but for now, we sit outside our cabin in December sunshine, watching birds drifting on the wind, dressed in shorts and tshirts and marvel at our good fortune🧡